#Plaster hand mold free

You can use accelerator in the silicone (or use more kicker) to make it kick faster, but that will make for a weaker mold.To avoid bubbles, pour slowly from one location and from high up, letting the silicone drift slowly into the detail on the model. The first layer of silicone is the most important one, because it’s what grabs all the detail from your model.After finessing the clay dam, clean all clay residue off the model with a damp brush (otherwise it will be cast in when you pour your silicone!).The cleaner this area is, the easier it will be to get good castings. The line where the clay meets the model should be very smooth, perpendicular, and have no gaps.Use a clay tool to bring the clay dam right up to the model.It goes on in pieces, which you can join together with your fingers. The first image shows the clay dam, mostly laid out onto the foam board.Roll the clay to a ¼' thickness - use a squirt bottle of water to keep it from getting sticky.Flatten the clay with your hands, and when it’s a little more than ¼' thick, place the clay pieces between 2 rails (wood will do) that are exactly ¼' high, positioned perpendicular to the rolling pin and close enough together that they’re underneath its rolling surface.I use water-based clay, the kind used for pottery, because oil-based clay and silicone don’t always get along. Since you want the clay to be a uniform thickness, a rolling pin is ideal for the job.

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#Plaster hand mold free

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